Tara taps my arm with her long fin. I look up and she points
to her other side. A young barracuda, maybe three feet long, hangs motionless
within her arm’s reach. We still and watch it for a long moment. It sort of
wriggles the length of its body, and then it’s simply gone. Not swimming away.
It's nowhere to be seen in the crystal clear water surrounding us. I turn in a slow
360 to see if anything else is around. Cuda? Dolphin? Turtle? Remora? Shark?
Nothing. I relax, but now I have to surface again. I envy
Tara’s ability to stay under for so long as I push up and drink in deep breaths
of the warm air. We’re exploring the Three Sisters, three tiny islands poking
out of the water—grey blue today, not the bright aqua of our our first few days
in Bimini. The tide is low enough we can see all three, barely large enough for
two or three intrepid mermaids to perch on, if they were so inclined.
I find the snorkel more frustrating than useful for this
kind of diving up and down, so I leave it flopping against my jaw. Deep breath,
back under. As soon as I push down into the water and level out a few feet
under, my heart stops crashing in my chest and I can hear…everything. It’s
unbelievably noisy, like a New York City street. Click-click-click. Grrrrrind.
Slurp. Splish-splash-slat. Creeeeaaaak. Chitter-chitter-chitter.
There is so much motion and color, it’s hard to focus on any
one thing. The floor is littered with shells and detritus. Coral and anemone
wave above it all. Fish dart, shrimp tuck into the coral, hermit crabs lumber
awkwardly, flopping their shells on top of them. I float, hanging in the water,
and wish I could stay like this forever. Well, for hours, anyway.
But I don’t have long until I have to go back up for more
air. So I focus on the shells, looking for one to collect. There, a bright
yellow bivalve. Even as I lean down, everything shifts, and it’s gone. How did
it completely disappear so fast? I try to focus on another, but I’m out of
time. My lungs throbbing in my chest and I feel the compulsion to take in a
breath becoming stronger. I have to surface. Now.
Tara’s waiting for me, and she suggests we swim around the
Three Sisters. There might be larger fish or a turtle on the other side from
us. We swim around, taking our time to dive under and explore the fan and brain
coral that litter the seabed. I keep looking for a shell to collect, but I come
up empty-handed again and again.
The middle island has a tunnel through it. Tara says it’s
about four feet wide and ten feet long. We can see through it to the other
side, and some other people in our group are challenging each other to swim
through it. Tara encourages me to take the dare. I think about it, and I really
want to. I’ve already made a deeper dive than any of the other guests. My
competitive streak is deeply buried, but seems to come out at inconvenient
times, like when someone is pointing to a conch 17 feet below. But I have
enough claustrophobia that I think being stuck in a four-foot-wide tube does
not sound at all appealing. If I panic, I’ll bump the walls and scratch the
heck out of my back, arms, legs. Great, blood in the water. Remember the
barracuda? I don’t think so. I shake my head and applaud all those brave enough
to swim through.
I’ll regret it later, I think, not trying, but I’m not quite
that brave today. I’ll have to be satisfied with my conch shell, and aching
eardrum, hundreds of photos from my brand new underwater camera, and a thousand
memories.
#
Now, years later, my first memory of Three Sisters is always
Tara pointing to the barracuda. I remember looking through the tunnel, and I
still feel that vague regret. But honestly, if I ever get the chance to go
again, I’ll challenge myself to successfully retrieve a beautiful shell
instead. Leave the tunnel for braver, or more foolhardy, swimmers than I.
Dogs in house:
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Houdini, Brindle
|
February word count:
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5054
|
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